In November of 2017, I drove out to West Texas from Austin to spend 4-days in the desert and take in the sights and sounds of Marfa, Big Bend National Park, Alpine, and literally everywhere in between.
It was my second time to make the 6-hour trek. The first time was in October of 2016, and it was a trip centered around seeing and being seen in Marfa. My second trip, which I refer to as “The Return to Marfa” was less about partying and more about experiencing the desert’s peaceful isolation and immense beauty.
West Texas is a unique and breathtakingly beautiful part of Texas the world. It takes forever to get there, but I find that once you do, you never really want to leave. And although I joke that it’s where people go to disappear, if you look around you can find plenty of unique things to do, good food, interesting characters, and rugged scenery.
So if you’re planning a visit to West Texas and want to make the most of it, this travel guide is for you.
Things To Do In Marfa/Alpine/Big Bend/Fort Davis
🌵 Big Bend National Park: Stunning desert landscapes, hiking, stargazing, and the Rio Grande.
🏞️ Balmorhea State Park: Home to a spring-fed swimming pool, “a cool oasis in the high desert.”
🎨 Marfa: Minimalist art scene, mysterious Marfa Lights, Chinati Foundation, Prada Marfa Art Installation, and eclectic vibe.
🛡️ Fort Davis National Historic Site: Explore a preserved frontier military post.
✨ McDonald Observatory (Fort Davis): World-class stargazing and star parties.
🏜️ Terlingua Ghost Town: Explore the ruins of a historic mining town, enjoy local art and quirky shops, and dine at the famous Starlight Theatre for delicious food and live music under the desert sky.
As you can see, there’s a lot to see and do in West Texas but I was only able to do the following:
Big Bend National Park
About 2.5 hours from Marfa sits Big Bend National Park. This breathtaking desert oasis in West Texas offers stunning landscapes, and rugged mountains along the winding Rio Grande.
It’s a perfect place for adventure seekers and nature lovers to hike, stargaze, and explore diverse ecosystems. Whether trekking through canyons, soaking in hot springs, or enjoying epic sunrises, Big Bend delivers unforgettable experiences in the heart of the Chihuahuan Desert.
I did a day trip from Marfa and it was well worth the 4-hour round-trip drive. The Rio Grande, mountains, and landscape are stunning. It truly feels like you are ou tin the middle of nowhere, because you are! It’s a little creepy and a lot magical. If you are looking to explore Big Bend, I’d recommend either going to Marfa first and then Big Bend or staying in Big Bend and then going on to Marfa, so you really get to enjoy the park’s 800,000 + acres and all they have to offer.
Langford Hot Springs
One of the things I really wanted to do in the short time I had in Big Bend National Park was take a dip in the soothing 105-degree hot springs located right on the side of the Rio Grande River.
J.O. Langford built a bathhouse and resort in the area to offer the spring’s healing mineral benefits to visitors. Today, the springs are available to park visitors who take the almost-mile hike down to the springs.
There you can soak and take in the stunning views of Texas, Mexico, and the river that runs between them. I was able to take a dip in the hot springs under the full moon light and it was once of the. most magical experiences I’ve ever had. There’s something very magical about this part of Texas.
And don’t miss the Indian paintings on the way down to the springs on the rocks!
Visit Boquillas Mexico
From Big Bend National Park, you can visit Boquillas, a quaint Mexican village on the other side of the Rio Grande. To reach the village, you can take a rowboat ride and a short walk or burro ride.
There, you’ll find local shops, authentic Mexican food at small restaurants, and a glimpse into the peaceful, remote lifestyle.
Unfortunately, I forgot my passport and was not allowed to cross over to Boquillas by the border patrol, so don’t forget your, as it’s required to re-enter the U.S. at the port of entry!
The Marfa Lights
The Marfa Lights are a mysterious phenomenon unique to Marfa, Texas, where glowing orbs of light appear on the horizon, seemingly dancing and shifting colors. These unexplained lights have puzzled visitors and locals for decades, sparking theories from UFOs to atmospheric reflections.
The best place to catch this phenomenon is at the Marfa Lights Viewing Area which offers the perfect dark atmosphere to try and catch a glimpse of this intriguing West Texas mystery.
I was able to catch the lights at the viewing area just outside of town and it was an insane experience! The lights seemed to float and move and appear then disappear without any logical pattern. I managed to capture a few photos (this was back in the day before video was popular) but the pictures don’t do the experience justice. This is truly something I think you have to just see and experience with your own eyes.
Presidio County Courthouse
The Presidio County Courthouse in Marfa, Texas, is a stunning example of 19th-century architecture, blending Romanesque Revival and Second Empire styles.
Built in 1886, its iconic pink facade and towering dome make it one of the most photographed landmarks in West Texas. Visitors can climb to the top for breathtaking views of Marfa and the surrounding desert landscape.
Balmorhea State Park
The Balmorhea Pool in Balmorhea State Park, Texas, is the world’s largest spring-fed swimming pool. Spanning 1.3 acres, it’s filled with crystal-clear water from San Solomon Springs, staying at a refreshing 72–76°F year-round. Perfect for swimming, snorkeling, or simply relaxing, this desert oasis offers visitors a chance to cool off while enjoying views of the rugged West Texas landscape.
This spring-fed pool is very similar to Barton Springs in Austin, Texas, and made for a refreshing visit.
Chinati Foundation
You can’t go to Marfa without seeing the art. The Chinati Foundation in Marfa, Texas, is a world-renowned contemporary art museum founded by artist Donald Judd.
Spread across 340 acres, it features large-scale, minimalist installations integrated with the surrounding desert landscape. Highlights include Judd’s iconic concrete and aluminum works, as well as pieces by other influential artists. The Chinati Foundation offers a unique blend of art, architecture, and nature, making it a must-visit destination for art enthusiasts.
Pro tip: Be mindful of the signs and don’t walk on the installations! Apparently, I looked right over them.
Prada Marfa
Prada Marfa is a quirky, iconic art installation located off U.S. Route 90 near Marfa, Texas. Designed by artists Elmgreen and Dragset, it resembles a luxury Prada storefront but is actually a sculpture featuring real Prada shoes and bags from the 2005 collection.
This iconic spot just outside of town is a popular photo opp for travelers so I recommend going early in the morning or in the evening.
Explore Downtown Marfa
Exploring downtown Marfa offers a blend of small-town charm and a thriving art scene. Stroll through streets lined with boutique shops, art galleries, and local eateries. Don’t miss the historic Hotel Paisano, where the cast of Giant stayed, or enjoy a coffee at one of the chic cafes. The mix of minimalist art, local culture, and quirky vibes makes downtown Marfa a must-visit destination in West Texas.
Explore Alipine
Alpine, Texas is a charming West Texas town nestled in the foothills of the Davis Mountains. Known as the “Heart of the Big Bend,” it offers a vibrant mix of art, history, and outdoor adventure.
Stroll through its historic downtown with colorful murals, unique shops, and the Museum of the Big Bend. Alpine also serves as a gateway to nearby attractions like Big Bend National Park and the Davis Mountains, making it a perfect base for exploring the region.
More Things To Do in West, Texas
Where To Eat In Marfa/Alpine/Big Bend/Fort Davis
Looking for a bite to eat while roaming around the Marfa area? I got you covered with the following suggestions.
Marfa Burrito
Marfa Burrito is a casual Mexican eatery in Marfa Texas cooking up homestyle fare and some of the best breakfast burritos I’ve ever had.
Their tortillas and salsa are as fresh and flavorful as they come and the service is outstanding. So, if you find yourself in town, I highly recommend visiting this local joint and enjoying a homemade burrito.
Other Places to Eat in and Around Marfa
- The Capri is a restaurant apart of the Thunderbird Hotel. I remember eating there but I know it was good. I probably don’t remember what I ate probably because I was so captivated by the Dia De Los Muertos offrendas.
- Hotel St. George has a full-service restaurant and two bars.
Where To Stay In Marfa, Big Bend, and Beyond
The first time I stayed in Marfa, I stayed at the famous El Cosmico in a yurt. It was a really amazing, although slightly cold, experience since I was there in the fall. It’s similar to camping as you have communal bathrooms, showers, and third-spaces.
The yurt did have a comfortable bed and was a good size for two people. However, it definitely doesn’t have the comforts of a hotel.
The second time I stayed in Marfa, I got a VRBO. It was a two-bedroom house complete with a full kitchen, clawfoot bathtub, big porch, and walking distance to most of downtown Marfa.
Other Popular Places To Stay in West Texas
🏨 Hotel Paisano (Marfa): Historic charm and home to Giant movie legends.
🛏️ Thunderbird Hotel (Marfa): Minimalist, modern design with a retro vibe.
🌌 El Cosmico (Marfa): Unique glamping in trailers, yurts, and teepees.
🏞️ Chisos Mountain Lodge (Big Bend): The only lodging inside Big Bend National Park, with stunning views.
🛏️ The Holland Hotel (Alpine): A historic hotel with Southwestern charm.
🛋️ St. George Hotel (Marfa): Upscale boutique hotel with contemporary art and style.
🌌 Lajitas Golf Resort (Big Bend): Luxurious escape with a golf course and stunning desert
More Resources To Plan Your Trip
Tell Me Everything!
Have you been out to West, Texas? What’s your favorite thing to see or do?
*Disclosure: I only recommend products I use myself, and all opinions expressed here are my own as are all photos unless stated otherwise. This post may contain affiliate links that, at no additional cost to you, I may earn a small commission. Thanks for supporting the Eat Well. Adventure Often. blog!
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